Cardedu Vermentino di Sardegna 2004
If any grape speaks Sardenia, it is the aromatic Vermentino, the most widely planted white
variety on an island more often associated with tourist resorts than wines. The grape gives a
great deal when well handled, and given its recent breakthrough into the sought-after
category, it may not be long until we see propagation around the world; the French are
growing the vine in Roussillon and Corsica. Can California be far behind with a grape so
easy for us to pronounce?
The Cardedu, which is less than $10 and, alas, now sold out at my source, brings a great deal to the glass. It has direct acidity complemented by seductive aromatic fruit and flowers. The light straw wine is clean and mainstream dry. The first aromas show a range of floral notes, a field of wild flowers, for example, rather than something cultivated out of a vase. Pear, peach, lime and a stony, mineral note round out the nose.
The wine's acidity is tart, direct, and yet the stuff of ripe fruit. Ripe apricot came first to my
sensors, with peach, lime, tangerine and a touch of tropical mango. Those flowersŚlets
consider them the edible varietyŚmeld nicely with all this. The wine is brilliantly refreshing,
but far more than a quaffing wine. It is as if we have arrived at some country market that
offers fresh fruit and flowers, on the perfect day, very early in the morning, with no other
Verdict: Fruit and Flower Basket
Aromatic grapes can be seductive if you simply let them be.
James Beard Award Nominee Elliot Essman