Célestin Blondeau Sancerre 2004 Tasting Notes
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Célestin Blondeau Sancerre 2004 Tasting Notes

Sancerre Sauvignon Blanc as we know it only came into prominence in the 1970s, but no matter, it is one of the few old world wines that when well-made presents itself as profound and just plain fun at the same time. The $18 Célestin Blondeau Cuvée des Moulins Bales Sancerre accomplished just that; I enjoyed it immensely, my girlfriend did not take to it, but so much the more for me I say.

The wine is crystal clear; the color it does present, though light, is gold rather than lemon. On the nose it attained peach and ripe apple, rose, the limestone minerality characteristic of Sancerre, and the delightful aroma of hay (one of my favorite scents, a glorious evocation of agriculture). The notes repeated on the palate, and here I noted grapefruit and lemon in round (but not piercing) aspects, adding a second check mark to the mineral dimension: the kind of tangible stone you want to dig up and use as a paperweight.

This wine is clean, crisp, with direct notes that represent four major realms of taste—fruit, floral, vegetal and mineral—without any undue competition.

Verdict: Vacu Vin Not Required
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I am all for putting wine by, but I'd rather skip the trouble and pay more for wine someone else has stored and insured, so I can drink it now.

food writer Elliot Essman James Beard Foundation Journalism Award
James Beard Award Nominee Elliot Essman

food writer Elliot Essman James Beard Foundation Journalism Award


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