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Cocktails are ever colonizing new territory. I do create my own, mainly because it makes me
feel oh-so-clever, but Kara Newman has one-upped me. Spice & Ice really tells it as a
title. We already know about the horseradish in the Bloody Mary, but Kara, who writes the
“High Spirits” column for Chile Pepper magazine, gives us 60 lavishly
illustrated recipes for cocktails that take their potency not only from their spirits, but from
fabulously showcased spices. Poblano peppers, wasabi, chipotles, radishes, ginger, Tunisian
harissa, peppercorns, cardamom, nutmeg: the list is sizeable. A good solid third of the book
involves preparation and method, how to handle spices, spicy cocktail food pairings, and an
especially eye-opening (if not eye-watering) section on how to make spice-infused liquors and
syrups. “The tricky part is how long to keep the liquor infusing,” she writes,
“but after you've finished the process, infused liquor will keep almost
indefinitely.”
Kara organizes these drink recipes by season (of the year) with the aim of showcasing fresh,
seasonal ingredients. The “Wasabi-Tini” ushers in spring (a caveat: wasabi-ize
with the utmost care). Summer's “Watermelon Hot” combines freshly pulsed
watermelon with green Thai chilies to allay (or perhaps obliterate) the worst of those dog
days. Autumn's “Mule Kick” is a variant of the “Moscow
Mule,” using jalapeño-infused Vodka. Winter's “Mexican Hot
Chocolate” is a multi-step recipe but evidently worth the trouble: hot chocolate with
Kahluá plus a half teaspoon of a “Mexican Spice Mix” composed of
chili powder, cinnamon, cardamom, ginger, cloves, and nutmeg. I am waiting for the chill of
winter (and some unsuspecting guests) to give this one a try. In my kitchen I am a confirmed
spice-tinkerer, so I already have sufficient raw ingredients for Spice & Ice. The
glassware purchase remains.
Verdict:
Breaks new ground in the cocktail universe.
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James Beard Award Nominee Elliot Essman
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