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Washington State crops up in my wine consciousness with great regularity. I usually find
these crops worth harvesting. In the case of Senoj, the winery was named after its founder
Jeff Jones: Senoj is the backward spelling of Jones. I like it. It has a better ring to it than
“Namsse.” Jeff started as a full-time techie in Redmond, that is, western
Washington, all the while spending several years of weekends learning the wine trade in
eastern Washington. Yes, he is a maverick. He makes a Syrah (not this) with a blend of
Carmenere, is about to put out a Primitivo (not a Zinfandel, we must stress), and has
yet another Syrah that comes to life using only ambient yeast. Further horizons call for
experimentation with Malbec.
The Senoj tasting room is in the well-known warehouse district of Woodlinville, in wet
western Washington, but like most Woodlinville wineries, the fruit comes from the arid
irrigated eastern part of the state. Jones (that's Senoj spelled backwards) cellars the wines in
Grandview in eastern Washington. The winery is small, producing just under 5,000 cases a
year. The focus is mellow and food friendly and the major market seems to be male
millennials.
Senoj Estates 2007 Syrah is 4% Viognier co-fermented with 96% Syrah, a product of grapes
grown in South Eastern Washington's Coyote Canyon Vineyard, located in the Horse Heaven
Hills AVA. The $22 wine is quite dark in color, with a pronounced nose giving dark fruit,
blackberry, black plum, violet, nutmeg, vanilla and black pepper. This is a dry wine, medium
plus body, mid-level acidity, nicely rounded tannins, with flavors of brambly blackberry, dried
fruit, licorice and a touch of apricot. The mouthfeel has the bright quality I often associate
with the Syrah and Viognier mixture; you get this in many Australian wines and of course in
the classic French Côte Rôtie from the Rhône River Valley. Drinks very
well and melded seamlessly with London broil.
Verdict:
Tasty.
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Washington State winemakers seem to have as much personal character as the wines they
produce.
James Beard Award Nominee Elliot Essman

Copyright © Elliot Essman 2009 The URL of this site is:
http://www.stylegourmet.com/wine/tas00248.htm
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