Vesevo Greco di Tufo 2005 Tasting Notes

White does not equate to light in the case of the $15 Vesevo Greco di Tufo. The twin themes of this wine are acidity and minerality, but the wine backs these up with true personality. The wine is a shimmering gold, deep in the center, paler toward the edges. The key aroma notes are apricot, apple peel, almond, a broad array of warm flowers, and a touch of fragrant, freshly ground cinnamon.

The acidity is north of medium, but with plenty of counter-balance, particularly in body, mouthfeel, pulpiness; call it what you will in this spirited wine. The aromatic notes are consistent with the palate; add a tangy orange and a filling minerality. The lengthy finish brings elements that balance exceptionally well: sour with bitter with mineral with fruit ripeness.

This Greco di Tufo is fun to be sure, but it would be a mistake to quaff it only as refreshment. After tasting, I enjoyed the wine with several meals; the wine presents its acidity so well as to match nearly anything. With food it is an absolute scene-stealer, hence it would be a shame not to give the wine at least a few moments on its own.