Hermann J. Wiemer Riesling 2006
New York Finger Lakes vintner Hermann J. Wiemer produces a range of Rieslingsólate
harvest and semi-dry includedóbut this 2006 is his driest offering, at 0.9% residual sugar.
Wiemer's roots are in Germany's Mosel region, where he grew up in a family of winemakers
and oenologists. He emigrated to the United States in 1968 and began to convert an
abandoned upstate New York farm into his winery in 1973. Convinced that vinifera varieties
could flourish in a region that had been heavily dependent on hybrid grapes, Wiemer made a
name for himself with a number of cool climate grapes (including Pinot Noir and Cabernet
Franc), though Riesling is understandably his primary love.
The 2006 Riesling is a good representation of Mosel Kabinett style. The first note on
the nose is youthful and fresh, with light petrol minerality, floral complements, green apple,
some ripe apple and fresh green gage plum. The wine is medium bodied in the mouth, with
apple, pear, and grapefruit citrus at the front of the line, backed by peach, kiwi, mango and
melon. The finish is elegant, long, and yet crisp and clean. The characteristic Riesling acidity
is nicely in balance; while many Rieslings look to balance acidity with sugar, this dry wine
does it with an admirable ripeness. It all makes for a stylish wine you can quaff or sip
depending on your mood, with food or without.
Verdict: Old World from the New
Land, dedication and an open mind seem recipes for great wines.
James Beard Award Nominee Elliot Essman