Freiherr von Heddesdorff Halbtrocken Riesling 2005 Tasting Notes

Von Heddesdorff has been coaxing wine out of these precipitous terraced slopes (some of the steepest in the Mosel) since 1424; Andreas Canal is the modern winegrower, growing Riesling only. As to my first error, since I know the wine is German, I am sensitized to taste the minerality in it; to my palate it is limestone and clay. On the second point, the fruit acidity—reflecting peach, apricot, mandarin orange, mango and especially lime—is unquestionably forward, so forceful as to push through, and indeed require, that bit of extra sugar, which balances and in fact enhances the bold acidity. This is full acidity, by which I mean the delightful direction of ripe fruit, maximally extracted yet beautifully balanced. Without the halbtrocken sugar, the wine might seem over-concentrated, stimulating to the palate but a step sideways from the direction of wine. The sugar itself, well-used in every respect, contributes to a redolent fruit-filled finish. The luscious lime speaks at every critical stage.

On the third point, price, any decent wine course or book will tell you Riesling is still suffering from its association with the hyper-sweet German trash wine of the past. The knowing consumer benefits from this dichotomy now, but you only have to look at California wines, which a generation ago faced a similar reputational issue. German Riesling will ultimately break through the perception barrier; this means your friends will finally know what you are gushing about, though the wine itself will cost more.