Paul Hobbs Russian River Valley Chardonnay 2005 Tasting Notes

I should start with the color; the certainty is that the color is alive. It may be straw, it may be a greenish-gold; it doesn't want to commit to any quality except clarity and loveliness. Looking for aromatic notes, I was first mightily pleased with orange blossom, lemon and orange peel, then peach. The real reward on the nose, however, is an apple pie with nutmeg, cinnamon and clove. Apple pie, let us remember, is the quintessential American reference.

On the palate the apple asserts itself further over the hints of citrus, aided by stewed pear, laced with vanilla, a touch of nutty caramel, and some more of the baking spice. At a higher harmonic level I perceived the warm echo of tropical fruit: pineapple and mango. The acidity, from both tree fruit and citrus, keeps the show on the road without being overbearing, and in fact plays a leading role in a successful and fruit-filled finish.

As the aromas and flavors of this wine are ripe and rich, so too is the mouthfeel; I cannot say the taste is buttery to any great degree, but the wine has the mouthfeel of a luxurious custard, the kind people wax nostalgically about in, say, Missouri (another American taste reference). The crème brûlée analogue could also apply, but though Chardonnay is a French grape, this is an American wine. We need more like this.