Duckhorn Napa Valley Merlot 2004 Tasting Notes

The Duckhorn gives the nose a lot to work on and excellent raw material for contemplation. I call the amalgam “deep fruit,” with aspects of black cherry, licorice, blackberry, and cola, combined with a faint spicy layer of vanilla, nutmeg and clove.

Blueberry and soft plum chime in with the other fruits on the palate. The baking spices are enhanced by a dash of black pepper, herbal notes of dried sage and lavender, with contributions of cocoa, toasted walnut and coconut, toasted oak.

As could be expected from a Merlot-dominated blend, the acid levels of the wine behave, despite all the ripe fruit, and the tannins keep to their schedule. The mouth feel is Merlot soft and yet lush and tactile. The wine entirely lacks the vegetal dullness that has proved the sensory trap of so many California Merlots. And yet, you wouldn't confuse this wine for a St-Émilion or Pomerol. This is as it should be. Duckhorn puts the name “Napa Valley” on the label for a reason. These makers are as committed to their California dirt as they are to their French grapes.