Bonny Doon Pacific Rim Dry Riesling 2005 Tasting Notes
wine pixies

Bonny Doon Pacific Rim Dry Riesling 2005 Tasting Notes

Produced by Bonny Doon in California using 75% Riesling grapes from eastern Washington State and 25% from the middle Mosel in Germany, the $11 wine presents a mineral nose of petrol and rubber before rapidly giving way to straightforward fruity acidity on the palate. Citrus notes (lime and grapefruit) lead the way, ushering in green apple and peach for the tree fruit component, with melon and floral elements. The minerality rests in the background.

“Dry” is part of the wine's label and is just as vehemently part of its persona. Perhaps I am influenced by the label term (the label itself is a stunning work of art, although I don't believe you can drink that), but I would have welcomed at least a hint of sweetness to round all this out. Instead, the wine takes a fruit-forward direction that reminds me of an Australian Sauvignon Blanc, but without the heady, swirling punch characteristic of that grape.

This wine is well made, refreshing in a “save me for summer” sense, even well-balanced, yet it leaves me wanting more of that aromatic marvel I call Riesling. This wine has corners, and in my mind, Riesling does not. The wine is linear, and Riesling is logarithmic. I think those analogies may hint at the difficulty, though only further Riesling can resolve it.


Verdict: Refreshing
Tasting Archive   Wine Pages Home   About Elliot

Sometimes I seem to go hard on a particular wine that may well delight many others, and even those with more discriminating palates than my own. Please write in and tell me I'm wrong, otherwise the opinion stands, solidifies, and—like me—gains weight.

food writer Elliot Essman James Beard Foundation Journalism Award
James Beard Award Nominee Elliot Essman

food writer Elliot Essman James Beard Foundation Journalism Award

   Contact

Copyright © Elliot Essman 2007 The URL of this site is:
http://www.stylegourmet.com/wine/tas00067.htm