Georges Dubouef Régnié Cru Beaujolais 2005
The village of Régnié-Durette qualified as the most recent of the ten Beaujolais Crus in
1988. While this Gamay is by no means a complicated wine, it delivers the solid kind of
cherry, sour cherry, apricot, plum, strawberry and raspberry fruit one expects; it is also totally
absent the more candy-like (I mean industrial candy) notes some Beaujolais, even among the
Villages and the Crus, bring across (no bubble-gum or Kool-Aid here). The
culprit is called amyl acetate, and I don't even like to be in the same house with it,
much less a closed automobile (chew gum and you don't ride with me).
As I've said, the named culprit isn't even hiding in the bushes with this Beaujolais, which
means, in essence, that all the fun you try to find in the bubble-gum variety Beaujolais, you
do get in this absolutely happy $12 wine. The solidly purple wine gives me a tangible finish
for the money, with a touch of cocoa, some alcoholic heat and even a hint of smoke.
Verdict: Light but no lightweight
While some life experiences push words out of the equation, wine seems to breed words; the greater the experience, the loftier the words, and the greater their number. Wine is the reason we sleep on our essays and edit them in the morning.
James Beard Award Nominee Elliot Essman