Allan Scott Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2005
To each his own; this is undoubtedly a well-made $13 wine, a perfectly serviceable
Sauvignon Blanc (by “serviceable” I mean that it complements food), but we all have our
leanings. Give me shrimp, chicken with capers, lobster or fish, for example, and the acidity in
the wine fits; alone (as I choose to judge a wine) and the acidity grabs too much of the
spotlight. Behind the acidity, I enjoy the minerality, but the flintiness I love never gets the
full light. Will the fruit save the day?
The mango is the most widely consumed fruit on the planet; it holds up the tropical fruit end here, as does kiwi, with ripe fresh lime. I keep hoping the fruit will play some impish tricks with me, but instead it decides to endure, to be simply “there.” I realize this is a choice, and respect it as such. I want more, because I've had more for the same outlay. If I am forced to attend to fruit above all, I want it to sing rather than recite the lyrics.
I've recently reviewed the Martinborough Te Kairanga Sauvignon
Blanc, which I think succeeds in expressing a francophilic elegance, as well as the Marlborough Matua Valley Sauvignon Blanc, which is about as
New World playful as you can get (neither New Zealand wine cost more). Now let me
express myself with great care: this bottle of Allan Scott was good, it has a satisfying finish,
and not a drop remains in the sensible screw-top bottle. I consider it reliable, but it's not on
my favorites list. That said, it goes down the gullet with great ease. I could have used a
Give me fruit, give me floral, give me herbaceous, give me mineral, give me everything, for I suffer from wine greed.
James Beard Award Nominee Elliot Essman