Domaine Schoffit Harth Tradition Riesling 2004 Tasting Notes
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Domaine Schoffit Harth Tradition Riesling 2004 Tasting Notes

Bernard Schoffit's Harth vineyard lies on the flat plain of the Rhine near Colmar in Alsace; Harth claims status as Lieu-Dit, or “named place,” a title that connotes a tradition of quality rather than a particular legal designation of excellence, as would be the case among Schoffit's own Alsatian Grand Crus. Legally the wine is Appellation Alsace Contrôlée, but factually it is the product of a single proud vineyard.

By carefully managing yields, Schoffit coaxes a great deal from the $16 Harth Riesling. The experience begins on the nose with some real minerality—petrol and bicycle tire rubber—which rapidly eases out on the palate to a satisfying stoniness. The fruit is more important; it has a power and yet an elegance: white peach above all on the nose and repeated on the palate, a touch of banana on the palate, a broad and lasting citrus layer with suggestions of orange peel that lasts through to the excellent finish.

The bottom line with this Riesling: the fruit dominates the minerality, but the fruit, and its acid in this dry wine (typical for Alsace) presents many enjoyable layers. The wine, like the grower, commits to a definite direction, and it works.


Verdict: Fruit Experience
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Great wine uses complexity to express itself with simplicity.

food writer Elliot Essman James Beard Foundation Journalism Award
James Beard Award Nominee Elliot Essman

food writer Elliot Essman James Beard Foundation Journalism Award

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