Trefethen Riesling 2005
Trefethen, which has a long history, is located in southern Napa, just north of Napa town. I
had the Trefethen 2005 Estate Dry Riesling with Haddock (which I liked less than the wine).
Trefethen keeps it simple; the grapes are their own, and the Riesling ferments in stainless
steel, no oak, no malolactic fermentation, no artifice. The result is as clean as the approach,
as complex as the grape. You get ripeness without too much acidity; at 13% alcohol the wine
is dry, as might be expected (the ripeness gives the brain, though not the tongue, a sweet
This result is a great deal of fruit: first grapefruit and peach on the nose, then lemon, melon,
pineapple, mango on the palate. In the mineral realm, the nose brought what I call white
porous stone, repeated on the palate with impressions of tar and gasoline (of the most
pleasant variety, I should stress). At $20 the bottle, I think you get some value for your green.
Listening to the wine, as to a human, is an important skill, but in the same way the wine want to
James Beard Award Nominee Elliot Essman