Gravity Hills Tumbling Tractor Zinfandel 2004 Tasting Notes
wine pixies

Gravity Hills Tumbling Tractor Zinfandel 2004 Tasting Notes

Paso Robles is a large inland region to the northeast of San Luis Obispo; known for its Zinfandel (and in earlier days as a “no questions asked” haven for outlaws), the region tends to be hot, mitigated in places by altitude. This is the case for Gravity Hills which makes much of its hilliness and location on the west side of Paso Robles: rocky and poor soil, hot days and chilly nights, just the milieu for wine grapes, especially as the chilly nights promote slow ripening. The incline of the slopes (“tumbling tractor” is supposed to be a literal description) promotes sun exposure, vine stress, and quick drainage; once again, the grapes take to the harshness.

Gravity Hills may have a point, you know. The $14 Zinfandel did taste like it came from the ground rather than a candy factory. I decanted the wine for five hours first. The wine is a deep ruby with touches of purple around the edges; the nose is clean, the alcohol reasonable for this type of product at 13.6%. (knowing that Zinfandels can often stretch into the 15-16% range, a real challenge to food).

The nose uncovered blackberry and blackcurrant, vanilla, black pepper, mushrooms, almond, and an animal meatiness, maybe leather. The palate registered plums, prunes, vanilla, black pepper, red bell pepper, almond, broccoli, cedar, tobacco, cigar box, and I could even say chocolate (though I firmly believe that only chocolate truly smells like chocolate). The wine is still young, and I want to taste it again.


Verdict: Give It Another Try
Tasting Archive   Wine Pages Home   About Elliot

Wine gives you the humility to realize you cannot know everything and at the same time the confidence that some day you may know something.

food writer Elliot Essman James Beard Foundation Journalism Award
James Beard Award Nominee Elliot Essman

food writer Elliot Essman James Beard Foundation Journalism Award

   Contact

Copyright © Elliot Essman 2007 The URL of this site is:
http://www.stylegourmet.com/wine/tas00011.htm