von Hövel Oberemmeler Hütte Riesling Kabinett 2005 Tasting Notes
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von Hövel Oberemmeler Hütte Riesling Kabinett 2005 Tasting Notes

These Mosel-Saar-Ruwer German wines (this one from the Saar), made in such small amounts (this is a five acre property) with such dedication, are unique, and this one went down smoothly. A clear. slightly bubbling lemon to gold with nose notes of citrus, green apple, ripe pineapple and mango, adding flavor notes of pear and peach. That's a great deal of fruit, all on a base of flint (as is the vineyard). This $16 Kabinett has enough sugar to carry the fruity, even dynamic acidity while keeping a foot in the dry camp.

Verdict: Seductive
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Tiny vineyards, tremendous dedication, total commitment in the producer demands the same level of attention in the taster.

food writer Elliot Essman James Beard Foundation Journalism Award
James Beard Award Nominee Elliot Essman

food writer Elliot Essman James Beard Foundation Journalism Award

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