Concha y Toro Marques de Casa Concha Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
There is something valuable and reliable about this $14 Chilean 100% Cabernet (lists up to
$20) and I am about to order a case. I needed my single bottle for dinner, had no time to
decant what is essentially still a young wine, yet went in the right direction almost
immediately. Deeply intense in color, ruby with a touch of purple, the wine gave my nose
notes of blackcurrant, prune and tobacco, my palate black cherry, black pepper, mushroom
and again tobacco.
This Maipo (Chile's hot Central Valley) Cabernet is aged 14 months in French oak barriques, 65% new oak, 35% used oak. The highly integral tannin does not cry to be burnished despite the wine's youth (although since this is a Southern Hemisphere wine, it is actually six months more advanced than an equivalent Northern Hemisphere 2004 would be). The finish had substance.
The reasoning behind the case purchase, rare for me since committing to a dozen bottles cuts
down on the variety of wines I can experience, involves dinner guests; two tables of four and
perhaps six, and the wine is long gone. A rest of a year or two won't hurt it.
Verdict: More Than A Value
Making a guest feel welcome with well-chosen wine is its own reward, but as a bonus you get to share the wine yourself.
James Beard Award Nominee Elliot Essman